WHILE Christmas Eve in the UK isn’t the main event of ‘Navidad’, this is the reverse in Spain. The night of December 24, called ‘Nochebuena’, is a big festive event where cultural differences can surprise or shock the unsuspecting ‘guiri’.
While both countries celebrate Christmas, the approach to December 24 is very different. For solo Brits, this can lead to being a loose cannon on the deck – rattling round, alone, ‘un poco perdido’ (a little bit lost).
It’s disappointing if you’re planning to socialise in your local bar/restaurant with Paula and Pedro, only to find shutters down by 4pm. And you don’t have a family buffet to fill the evening. Now you’re in full-on Grinch mode, feeling blue instead of shiny and festive.
The Spanish Nochebuena – a family affair
In Spain, Nochebuena is a family event (yes, hard luck if you don’t have one!). By the evening, most bars and shops are closed and people go home (or to ‘casa Mama’) for lavish dinners that have taken hours to prepare, largely by the women. Traditional buffet-type dishes include seafood – such as ‘gambas’ or langoustines – roasted meats, filled eggs, potato salads, and turrón (a delicious, nougat-like substance).
Even in cities such as Granada, Motril, and Málaga, many bars close early, leaving the streets eerily quiet, like a ghost town. This is in striking contrast to the UK, where pubs are packed with revellers on Christmas Eve, and anyone can socialise easily.
However, not everyone in Spain stays home for Nochebuena. Some restaurants open for those lacking a family gathering, or who don’t want to be near a hot stove (or their relatives). In Granada, a handful of eateries – particularly those catering to tourists – may stay open. On the Costa Tropical, you might find restaurants along the beachfront offering special Nochebuena menus, although it’s essential to book in advance.
Hotels such as the highly-rated Helios Costa Tropical in Almuñécar remain open to guests. Here, you can enjoy an impressive all-you-can-eat buffet. This is a great option for anyone who doesn’t have a family meal to attend. Note that the room rates are higher on festive dates.
British Christmas Eve
For many UK residents, Christmas Eve is a social highlight of the year, rivalled only by New Year’s Eve. Pubs are packed with people meeting friends and family. Many are imbibing a heady concoction of alcohol – including some disgusting concoctions that only come out at Christmas. such as Advocat or, even worse, Eggnog.
The atmosphere is of collective anticipation – a prelude to the quieter family celebrations of Christmas Day. People are exited about opening their presents under the tree (in Spain, this is largely reserved for the Three Kings event on 6 January). Late-night shopping is also a hallmark – Mum & Co. go to Iceland… or Tesco Extra.
For expats in Spain, replicating this atmosphere is challenging. Even in tourist-heavy areas, the lively British revelling vibe of December 24 is hard to find. With this in mind, you need alternative options.
So, here are some suggestions for filling the evening if you’re hanging solo….
Top tips to amuse yourself
- Book a dinner: If you’re not up for cooking yourself a Nochebuena dinner (prepping a lavish meal for one isn’t so much fun), research which restaurants are open in your town. If you plan to drink alcohol, book a venue within walking distance. Taxis will be hard to find, or expensive, outside the bigger cities. And the traffic police will be out in force with hefty ‘multas’ for the intoxicated.
- Movie night: Sometimes, simple is best. Such as a cozy evening in front of the woodburning stove with a classic film or documentary selection. This can equally rewarding as a night out with people who will be annoying when they get drunk! And it won’t cost you anything! YouTube is your friend here. Choose what you like and rejoice that you’re not like being force-fed the BBC’s cheesy festive programming schedule.
- Indulge in treats: Stock up on British and Spanish festive goodies. Pair mince pies with ‘polvorón‘, or cava with mulled wine (or possibly not!). If you’re in La Alpujarra, you might buy ‘jamón serrano’ or ‘vino costa’. If you’re truly bored, remember that more than two ‘riojas’ will encourage an early night with deep sleep!
- Cuddle your pet: If you have a dog or a cat, they’ll be up for some special attention. Take Fido for a walk in the crisp (OK, freezing!) winter air, then curl up together by the fire. Dogs are easier company than humans sometimes!
- Reflect and recharge: Use the quiet night as an opportunity to pamper yourself, reflect on the year ahead. Also, reflect that you won’t have a hangover or bellyache in the morning, like many people in your town. Win-win! However, don’t use it as an excuse to dwell on the mistakes of 2024. Onward and upwards into 2025!
- Phone a friend or family member: If you feel alone, why not call someone online and have a lively chat? A video call can seem like you’re in the same space. You can even raise a glass or mince pie together.
The hybrid option
For many expats, the best approach is to blend the two cultures. You might start with a British-style Christmas Eve, complete with exports from Inglaterra (mince pies, Toblerone or Terry’s Chocolate Orange), and then venture out for a late-night ‘paseo’.
By midnight, the bars will be open again. Spanish men – in particular – will be whooping it up with a few ‘cubatas’, having escaped their wives and mothers. So there will be some sort of merriment to witness.
Another option is to attend a Midnight Mass in your local church (perhaps not if you’ve been drinking heavily first and feel rowdy). Be respectful.
It’s only one night of the year
Ultimately, Christmas Eve is what you make of it. While the lack of social action might seem woeful to an unsuspecting, solo ‘guiri’, the Spanish emphasis on family values is charming when compared to the excesses and ‘plastic fantastic’ Christmas of the UK.
Whatever you do (or don’t do) – remember that it’s only one night of the year. You still have Christmas Day and New Year’s Eve to whoop it up with the local community.
If it really comes on top…
Always be aware that that media depictions of “perfect” families celebrating together are not always the reality. Christmas is a time when fall-outs are rife – whether it’s over an old family feud or someone simply drank too much ‘vino’ and insulted their cousin. Christmas is also a time of high suicide rates. If you can’t cope with your negative feelings, you can call the suicide hotline – 024 and chat to someone who understands.
Boxing Day is a non-event…
Finally, remember that ‘Boxing Day’ in the UK – 26 December – is not celebrated as a public holiday here in Spain. Yes, this means it is a non-event, and a workday for employees. The noisy ‘obras’ (building works) directly beside your home really will start at 8am, disturbing your planned lie-in.
If you can, it’s best to escape to the ‘campo’ where you can have a tranquil day, away from people bustling with their jobs.
Whatever you choose to do this Christmas in Spain – ‘Feliz Navidad’ from South of Granada.