Jo Chipchase (aka “Calamity Jo”) has had an “average” summer this year She can’t wait for September in La Alpujarra, when everything “returns to normal”… but what activities are available in our region that aren’t the “hearty party” of the previous month?
Another August has gasped away, leaving the community basically in two camps about how they experienced summer 2025. On one hand, enthusiastic people are proclaiming on social media (with accompanying – filtered – reels and photos) that they had a “Perfect Family Summer” (TM). This is invariably complete with selfies depicting poolside vistas, amazing waterfalls, champagne on yachts, exotic-looking resorts, and declarations that 43C in the shade is “lovely and only to be expected in Andalucia”.
On the other hand, some people did not have such a wonderful time. In the life of ‘Calamity Jo’, summer 2025 was almost (but not quite) as bad as Christmas 2024, when there was an unfortunate incident regarding some teeth (not for public consumption). Bear a thought for those people suffering from chronic illness (or in hospital), malaise, boredom, heatstroke, infected insect bites, scabies, ringworm, bedbugs, family issues – or all the above, in an endless cycle, while sweating profusely. They can’t wait for September in La Alpujarra!
No, not everyone was at the nearest waterpark, spa resort, or whooping it up in Ibiza. These people might include the health-compromised, the empty nesters, the separate nesters (Google it!), those dealing with untameable children, carers of the elderly, and anyone unable to find an open ‘motor taller’ for their broken-down car. Not forgetting those who locked horns with their neighbours over a water pipe/stray dog poo on the street/boundary dispute/etc. – so they hid inside with the shutters closed!
It is well known that August in Andalucía is not for the faint-hearted. It is usually an endurance test. Some made it through with style. Others skulked in the shade, feeling vaguely depressed. The good news is that the “Dog Days” are now over. September has arrived, bringing a reprieve, and new opportunities to make “good life decisions”. At very least, you can get on with your work, minus the outside noise (those people from Madrid again!) and the hangover!
So, what can we do in September in the Alpujarra and Granada region?
Back to work – and then some!
If you are a tax employee, gestor, vet, mechanic (add appropriate profession here!) who disappeared for most of August to ‘la playa con ‘la mujer’ – leaving people wondering what to do with their sick dog, broken-down car, or duplicate tax bill, this is great news for just about everyone! We can breathe a sigh of collective relief, and sort out our lingering August issues. And do that boring admin!
If you are a freelance worker, dying in your sauna-like home office, September is a lot easier to manage. And without “los jovenes” partying under your nose until 8am, with their sad ‘botellon’, now is the time to grab new opportunities. Personal projects can resume without feeling like your office machines are “baking you to death”. You call business contacts/companies and finally speak to a real person, not an AI bot set on “repeat”.
Even if you suddenly hanker for those late nights and lie-ins, everyone else will be back at work as well. Time to be ‘tranquilo’!
Earlier-in-the-day horse rides, dog walks, and hikes
Now that temperatures are dropping (we think!) and the “nights are drawing in”, horses can finally be taken on longer rides earlier in the day – without sweating profusely (especially at lower altitudes) and giving you a sentiment of being a hard taskmaster! Your dogs will thank you for taking them for a decent walk, instead of those begrudging “once round the block” outings, where doing their business means “go home immediately”. No more of Fido giving you a sad, puzzled glance, when you slope back home (maybe up a terribly steep slope!) to lie down again. There’s no excuse now! Also, Fido’s paws will no longer be ‘ouchy’ on those hot surfaces that baked in August.
Walking trails that previously felt like heart-attack-inducing death-traps are suddenly inviting again. The GR7 is once again your friend, not your foe. Or how about a hike to the Ermita above Pinos del Valle…. up that steep slope! Imagine the view…. but who would want to attempt it in August?
Seasonal accommodation bargains are back
One of the best things about September is the return to “medium season” (then low season), and the sudden appearance of decent accommodation deals. Hotels, campsites, and rural bungalows are noticeably less lofty with their prices now that half of Madrid has gone home. A mid-week break with half-board may be cheaper than your weekly supermarket shop or even that expensive family restaurant meal where someone ordered the 35e sharing platter. Better still – you can enjoy the facilities without being overwhelmed by pesky tourists (like, those who don’t live here!). Sunbeds might be available after 7am! No towel wars at dawn! Whether it’s Cabo de Gata or the Costa Tropical that takes your fancy, now is the time to search for options on trusted booking websites.
Flights will also become easier, without jostling with all those ‘grockles’ heading to or from Torremolinos, who have somehow crept in front of you in the special post-Brexit passport queue at Málaga Airport. On the motorway, you’re likely to see less ‘atascos’ (huge traffic jams), because someone driving back to their home city at 140kmph has overturned their car in the fast lane.
Open swimming pools will be…. cleaner?
While municipal pools closed with their usual abrupt finality (because why should anyone want to swim in September, even if it’s 35C?), some private pools are still open. Campsites, hotels, and apartment block pools can still be enjoyed (check out ‘Swimmy’ to book private pools). Yes, this means fewer (or no) screaming children jumping on your head and doing unspeakable things in the water. With fewer swimmers, the filtration systems are arguably under less strain, and the water quality less dubious. A huge advantage for the adults! The reporter once researched swimming pool maintenance, and what was read can never be unseen!
Maybe you could head to a nearby city with an indoor pool that supports lane swimming, to shed the extra inches from all those summer ‘cervezas’.
Mosquitos disappearing in September in La Alpujarra
Some people, like the author, are absolute magnets for every biting beastie – mozzies, ants, sandflies, fleas…. Cleaning your horse corral without long boots means a cornucopia of bites on the foot and ankle area (from pesky goats)! September means that the mosquito population is going into decline, after the August “all you can eat” buffet. September evenings are still pleasant outdoors, although you might need your hoodie or jacket (these also protect against any remaining bugs). Also, beware of angry late-season wasps! They don’t like you!
Flora, pretty leaves, and foraging
As for plants, geraniums, petunias, and tagetes begin to emerge, while chestnut trees are abundant with their spiky fruit awaiting the October ‘castanada’ events . Soon, the mountain slopes will be resplendent with autumn leaves. Especially in La Alpujarra, the sunsets start to be colourful, making you grateful for your camera/smartphone.
Meanwhile, in the higher villages and forestry areas (such as Puente Palo), autumn mushrooms will soon appear – a reminder that foraging season is upon us. Just remember: not every fungus is edible. If in doubt, consult a local who definitely knows their stuff, and not someone in the bar who failed their biology exam.
Cultural life resumes in September in La Alpujarra (or should we say it “continues”!)
After a lull of maybe a few days while school resumes – yes, a handful – village fiestas, concerts and workshops spring back into life (if they ever ducked back out!). If you’ve spent August avoiding DJs playing until 8am, now is your chance to realise that it never really ends, so buy some earplugs or noise-cancelling headphones. Órgiva’s fiesta occurs during the last weeked of September. This is the town’s main Saint Day event, complete with music, processions, and sufficient fireworks to upset various expats, as always! Our favourite element is the ‘cintas’ race, where horses (they must be pre-registered) compete for the riders to pull ribbons off a rope, and earn 10e per ribbon. It is great fun!
At almost the same time, Mecina Bombarón celebrates its fiesta for San Miguel y la Virgen de los Remedios.
Also not to miss is the Planeta Bass Festival at Camping Los Bermejales, near Granada, on 19-20 September.
By October, we have the chestnut festivals with roasted ‘castañas’, wine, and the usual frivolity.
Evenings in – possibly becuase your village bar is shut!
You might now regret that the bar now shuts at 10pm, not 4am during September in La Alpujarra. The village is quieter but, drat, you wanted a ‘tapa’ and now it is a ghost town!
September restores the “joy” of staying home. You can cook without fainting from the oven heat, enjoy a fresh glass of wine on the terrace without being roasted (and bitten!), open the windows for fresh air, rather than let in a blast furnace, and enjoy being a homebody. With this approach, you can also avoid making a spectacle in front of the locals after a few ‘tintos’ at the village party. Win-win!
So, if your summer wasn’t perfect – it was sweaty, fractious, and full of conflict – it’s over now and you can just turn Netflix on and chill out!
Top 10 places to enjoy in September in La Alpujarra and beyond
- Poqueira Gorge (Pampaneira–Bubión–Capileira loop) – spectacular views, chestnut trees with leaves beginning to turn, and sunsets that make you glad you brought a camera.
- Lanjarón woodland walks (“Ruta de los Pilares” & Sierra de Lanjarón trails) – shady pine and chestnut forests above the spa town, with fountains along the way.
- Soportújar (the witcy village) – post-high-season, some calm has (probably) returned, meaning that you can park easily and view the resident dragon fountain, serpent, Baba Yaga, etc.
- Trevélez – This village, based at 1,476m is the ideal place to enjoy crisp mountain air, jamón cured locally with its own special quality seal, and find the amusing piggy effigies in their ‘casitas’. The Barrio Alto is well worth a visit.
- Ruta de los Olivos Centenarios (Órgiva area) – gentle walking among thousand-year-old olive trees. Take Fido!
- Acequia & feature walks (various villages) – flat, shady paths that follow ancient irrigation channels, perfect for exercise while enjoying the early autumn colours. One 14km waterfall walk in Durcal is highly recommended by locals. There is also the Fuente Agria in Pórtugos, with its ferrous appearance.
- Cáñar to Soportújar trail and the Dique24 dam – panoramic valley views, now achievable without risking collapse from heat exhaustion. Be sure to wear hiking shoes with tread (not your flip flops) and take a stick, water, and a sandwich! If you can’t manage the route back, get someone to collect you in the bar at destination!
- Mecina Bombarón & Bérchules area – quiet eastern Alpujarra villages with fountains, leafy walks, and a change from the area around Órgiva. Laroles is also well worth a visit, and don’t miss the nearby ‘Puerta de la Ragua’ – a winter resort with amazing views in autumn.
- Puente Palo (above Cáñar) – pine forests and picnic spots (even if a bit “rough and ready – i.e. no loos!), this beautiful zone is ideal for horse riding, bike riding, hiking along marked trails, or simply enjoying the smell of ‘pinos’.
- Granada day trip – the city has cooled, the Alhambra gardens glow in autumn light, and the sunsets from Mirador de San Nicolás are impressive. Again, there will be hotel deals available (check if parking is included). Some hotels have jacuzzis (we are told) and views over the Albyzin. Or rent a cave house and literally be really cool this autumn!
