DURING the whole festive season, large Alpujarran towns have full Christmas programmes. These have Zambombas (flamenco dance evenings), Santa’s grottos, excursions, and DJs in the municipal ‘carpa’ (tent). While many residents appreciate the endless action, there’s always the risk of crowds and queues. You can even run into ‘Canal Sur’ making an ‘Andalucia de Fiesta’ programme, and asking people to pose for the film crew.
An obvious antidote to the commercial, large-scale events, are the age-old traditions found in white villages, These exist off the beaten track in the higher Alpujarra.
Being serenaded in the village of Cáñar
One such annual event is held in Cáñar – a village with no through road, known as the “balcony of La Alpujarra”. The village holds an authentic and traditional festive event that is an experience you will not witness elsewhere!
Called ‘Musica de las Mozeualas’, the fiesta of song and seranade starts at 2am on 28 December and continues for 24hrs. It originated in the late 19th century, when village men would serenade young women they fancied. The idea was to encourage dating and relationships. This is long before Tinder existed, and people were more genteel. Plus it was difficult to date women outside the village, bearing in mind its past isolation (no road).
The serenading songs (while sounding quite repetitive to the uninitiated) have been handed down through the generations. They are accompanied by maracas, accordion, guitars, drums, and people banging drinks bottles (anis and Baileys being firm favourites).
More of a drinking fiesta than true romance
The night starts with just men circulating the village streets, stopping at the front doors and balconies of women. Although the targets used to be single women of marriage age, now it is any women. This includes the elderly ‘abuelas’, who appreciate being serenaded by the younger generations, and their sons.
However, some single mothers dislike “being asked to pay some drunk men at the door to sing.” This highlights how the nature of the event has changed over the years! Not so romantic.
By the morning, women join the merry band. The participants paint their names across their foreheads and traverse the streets. They sing for many hours, while carrying beers and Baileys.
The crowd includes everyone from serious musicians to seasoned old-timers, youths, and obvious revellers.
By about 5pm, the merriment ends in the village plaza, where a large fire is lit and people enjoy a communal meal with free beer. The “after party” continues into the early hours with much laughter. This year a local Baritone, with some talent and many beers, was singing about his love of Andalucia. This went down well.
In an era where sentiment has been lost, and commerce prevails, it’s heart-warming to attend an intimate village fiesta with happy, smiling people.
