By Jo Chipchase – ex Lanjarón resident, 50-plus ‘fiestera’, and horse rider….
MY FAMILY lived in Lanjarón for over a decade, in the heart of town, near the shops, bars, and action. During that era, the most eagerly anticipated moment of the year was when a loud “banger” marked the start of the fiesta of San Juan in Lanjarón. It meant that school was over, a summer of freedom lay ahead, the swimming pool was open. Best still: we were starting 3-4 days of endless fun and frivolity.
Since moving away to a quiet village, I’ve remained fond of Lanjarón. I visit frequently, and return each year for San Juan in Lanjarón. I look back happily on the time when my boys were younger and San Juan was more of a family affair for us. I have great memories of them participating in the ‘Mister Infantil’ (pageant) contest. One year, my eldest son turned into ‘Mister Chicken Pox’. Another, the youngest somehow wore the same outfit twice because Mama had wandered off at the wrong moment, towards the bar (ahem!). Another year, I came down with the worst flu on Day One of the fiesta. I tried to “cure” it with Rioja, and it didn’t work. I felt like death!! On the final day, I thought I would pass out, on the stage, in front of the ‘ayutamiento’ staff and audience. And I won’t discuss the time I put my leg through a glass door…
Now, the fiesta holds, for me, a mixture of nostalgia and present-day fun. As most residents realise, San Juan in Lanjarón has changed into something dramatically different from two decades ago. It is more of a public affair.
A much bigger event…
So, yes, what began in the 1970s as a local event for local people with jamón, ‘vino’, and buckets of water has morphed into an ‘Event of Tourist Interest’. Today, San Juan Lanjarón. has clockwork organisation, with an almost exemplary PR effort (I have a degree in PR!). In fact, I frequently use the Lanjarón ‘ayuntamiento’ as an example of “good PR” – in a rural area where there is frequently bad or zero PR! The fiesta, these days, also features a slick social media presence, a roving photographer wearing full body armour, and reporters from TV channel, Canal Sur, covering the most newsworthy elements. The male presenter stripped to his “budgie skimmer” swim shorts, which was quite a surprise.
One of the annual highlights – ‘La Publica’ (a carnival parade, always held at 6pm on the Saturday) – has increasingly become a true paparazzi-fest. It was more noticeable this year than ever. So many people are taking photos to sell, just when participants can snap great shots on their high-end smartphones. I personally started feeling sick with the heat after 1.5hrs at La Publica (it went so quickly!) and headed to a friend’s house to drink cold beer!
The water fight – on the night of 23 June – now attracts bus loads of people and requires a security team, wristbands, and barriers. It is still fun – if you can take those huge hoses soaking you to the skin in the fresh air at midnight!
Although some people preferred the more intimate fiesta of the early 2000s, the “mass event” of San Juan in Lanjarón today means that there’s always something to do, around the clock. And you can’t say that about all town fiestas! Most have dead spells, with nothing to do other than sleep (or drink).
One drawback is that you probably can’t manage to see everything you fancy on the programme without burnout. Believe me, I’ve tried in the past – for example, riding in ‘Día de la Biicleta’ on little or no sleep. Also, the quality of music programming has improved vastly over the last 1.5 decades, making “burning the candle at both ends” more probable.
Two types of fiesta experience – can you manage both?
1. The Hard Fiesta
For the committed ‘fiester@’, (including yours truly – an old 90’s raver!), the DJs in the plaza continue until dawn. It’s easy to lose track of time and suddenly realise the sun is coming up. Even worse – returning to your hotel just as the municipal rubbish trucks appear. And then you can hear breakfast being served below your room as you contemplate the condition you are in!
The maddest plaza parties tend to occur on the nights of La Publica and the water fight. On both these occasions, this year (as always), my idea of “let’s behave until at least 10pm” was thwarted. This happens annually, when random friends encourage refreshments at lunchtime. Somehow, it is never an ‘agua con gas’.
Late at night, there’s always the enticement of visiting the ‘Rincon de la Salsa’ mojito bar, run by Julio the Cubano. This is always worth passing at about 4am to see the interesting people who have appeared.
2. The Civilised Approach
Not everyone wants to party hard and many people like to enjoy a more sedate and sober approach. There’s something for people of all ages at San Juan in Lanjarón. ‘Sevillana’, Fit Flamenco, children dancing, street parades, stage shows, grabbing a ham from a pole, and the horse event – the ‘cintas race’ – my personal favourite. This year. the ‘cintas’ was accompanied by a ‘pasa calles’ of horses, where the equines paraded around town.
This year, I rode my gelding and pulled 13 ribbons off the rope, although at least one attempt was very dubious (I was kind of suspended from the rope by my left hand). The photos of sweaty ‘guiri’ grabbing at things, while Roble has a wild look, are so unglamorous that I won’t post them!
One of my regrets was missing the colourful ‘Romeria’ (religious procession) on the Tuesday morning (day of San Juan, 24 June) – by about 15mins – because I felt so rough after the water party. I could have sat on a chair and watched it go by! Although I’m not convinced that it’s respectable to attend ‘Santa Misa’ in a “hanging” state, you would not be the only person by far! Remember those sunglasses and sun hat! And sun cream.
TikTok almost-viral and actual virus
Well, I did well to survive three nights of the fiesta – bearing in mind that I had a virus masquerading as a pollen allergy. After visiting the ‘centro de salud’ on the Monday morning, to moan about my tight chest and wheezing (I blamed a canopy of trees under my hotel room), I made a couple of videos of the ‘Lanzamiento de Agua’ (water throwing contest). I was suprised that a wheezy person, feeling so depleted, could accumulate (at the time of writing) 88.2k views. I have no idea what made it so popular (below).
By 10am Tuesday morning, I was finished off – and went home. All hail the hardy Spanish who manage five days of their town fiesta – ‘no problema’. They are a different breed to the ‘guiris’ when it comes to pacing themselves.
As for whatever you missed on the programme this time round – there is always San Juan in Lanjarón 2026. It comes around so quickly! Viva San Juan!
Highs of San Juan in Lanjarón 2025
- Running into random friends – there were some interesting conversations, some of which are best not mentioned!
- Taking part in the cintas on horseback – we won a trophy!
- Three nights of party party – right up to the point when you realise you’ve finally overdone it!
- Hotel Andalucia – the door is open 24/7 and the breakfast is a great bargain for 7e.
- The daytime family water race – in the sun!
Lows of the experience
- Missing the romería. Again – nobody would have noticed the hungover vibes, in reality.
- The wheezing and coughing – and the bad throat afterwards.
- Not going into the hotel pool – this plan would have led to sinking!
- Losing a favourite bikini top at La Publica – why put it in your camera bag in the first place?
- Not eating enough – it’s easy to be distracted by passing attractions and forget to sit down and order food. All that’s left is a baked potato!
Photo Gallery – La Publica
All photos: J. Chip, San Juan in Lanjaron 2025.