THE ‘Festividad del Santísimo Cristo de la Expiración’ (Cristo for short) in Órgiva – occuring 10 days before Semana Santa – is the biggest event of its kind in La Alpujarra. It is eagerly awaited by residents, colloquially known as “hueveros”. It marks Christ expiring his last breath on the cross, and the related suffering and pain.
Cristo is a deeply rooted religious celebration in Órgiva. Dating to 1815, this annual event has been held continuously, except for 2020 and 2021 – the Covid-19 pandemic years.
What happens at Cristo?
The religious fiesta unfolds in three stages. The first is ‘La Bajá’ at noon on the Thursday, with the descent of the Christ effigy from his chapel to the main church altar. This is celebrated by an impressive fireworks display in the street outside the church using hundreds of ‘cohetes’ (super-loud bangers) – bring your ear plugs!.
At 18.00hrs on the Friday is ‘La Salía’. This is the solemn procession of the image through the town’s streets, accompanied by devotees and a marching band. And more bangers! Finally, is ‘La Subía’, meaning the return of Christ to his chapel, on the next Saturday.
The image of Christ in Órgiva was crafted by artist Pablo de Rojas and is Andalucian Baroque art with Granada influences. Visitors can see the effigy in the church.
This year, because of a heavy downpour at the time of ‘La Salía’, the procession was cut short and Christ was soon returned to the church. Although there was some criticism, La Alpujarra has something of a microclimate, and weather can be hard to predict (even the AEMET state weather forecast gets it wrong frequently). Those who missed Cristo passing through their ‘barrio’ can look forward to the Semana Santa processions, coming soon.
Fiesta of Tourist Interest
In recognition of its cultural and touristic significance, Cristo in Órgiva was declared a ‘Fiesta de Interés Turístico’ (Fiesta of Tourist Interest) in Andalusia by the Junta de Andalucía on September 5, 2023. This means it will receive more promotion than previously.
In line with this, the ‘baja’ of Christ on the Thursday at noon was filmed by Canal Sur this year, following a similar broadcast in 2024.
A serious event
As Cristo is a religious fiesta – and taken seriously, as such – it is not accompanied by the municipal ‘carpa’ (tent) with music and DJs that is present at most town ferias. There was slight controversy about setting up a bar in the municipal carpark near the ‘columpios’, which had returned this year, to the delight of the ‘juventud’ (youth).
After dark, many people chose to frequent the late night bar, Caribe, which is open until 4 or 5am, playing largely reggaeton. Many youths were wandering around – to the ‘columpios’ (fairground rides) – and back to the kebab stall. Some of the youths looked a bit aimless!
On the Friday night, the ‘extranjeros’ (foreigners) organised a fairly sedate Mexican cabaret in the indoor market, followed by DJ Alvaro.
As for the adults, after late night revelling in Caribe, imagine being woken up by “petardos” (bangers) going off under your bedroom window from 8am. Even an ibuprofen could not beat the bangers! It is definitely sufficient to make you repent!
Fireworks… everywhere
If you don’t like fireworks of every single kind, Cristo in Órgiva is definitely not for you! South of Granada belives it is important to respect local cultures and traditions. Therefore, the annual complaints about the bangers (largely from ‘guiris’) unsurprisingly don’t go down well with the resident population. However, one war veteran who accidentally wandered into the banger extravaganda said it brought on his PTSD. It’s good to read the programme before the event, and be aware of when the main fireworks take place.
Strangely, despite the prevelance of fireworks, it’s all too easy to miss – accidentally – the big display in front of the church. You must arrive in good time to find a parking space, walk to the main street, and claim a spot in the crowd. The reporter also missed some ‘barrio’ fireworks beside her accomodation. Having looked out of every window, it transpired that they had been detonating directly above the roof, from the nearby carpark. Bonkers!
Many of the loud bangs you hear all day long are from kids throwing ‘petardos’ in the plaza and main streets of town. In the UK, health and safety would probably ban half the fun – just take care where you are stepping!
A prelude to Semana Santa
Although Cristo precededs Semana Santa (Easter), it is not related – but it does have symbolic overlaps. The themes of sacrifice, suffering, and redemption of Semana Santa are similar to those of the Expiración – literally meaning Christ’s last breath on the cross.
This year, Semana Santa starts on April 13.
Photo gallery
Advice for enjoying Semana Santa and other Órgiva fiestas
- Obtain the fiesta programme in good time (try the Ayuntamiento Facebook page), and ensure you know when the main events take place. It’s all too easy to miss a “big banger” of a photo opportunity because you’re 5mins late or can’t park near the town centre. Or walk into a crowd when you don’t want to!
- Arrive in good time to organise yourself and, yes, find a legal parking space. Don’t block corners or “vada permanantes” (keep clear locations with obvious signage). Park in well-lit areas – never in dark, remote corners.
- Don’t drink and drive! There are police patrols ready to give you a hefty fine if you are DUI. You can find accomodation in town. For an affordable option take your tent or campervan to Camping Orgiva – a 20min walk away, in a beautiful setting. Somebody will probably give you a lift!
- The bars at the bottom end of town tend to close the earliest and the main late night hangout is Bar Caribe. So, head uptown if everything seems quiet downtown!
- Enjoy yourself but pace your refreshments! Too many ‘vinos’ early in the day can lead to siesta-ing instead of fiesta-ing.
- Have fun!
