AS YOU drive through La Alpujarra, there are three towns, do-able in a circular road trip, that all have ‘cute’ models for tourists to view – as well as great places to stop, eat, and take photos.
So, where are these towns, and what is the trip route?
Soportújar
The most famous of the three towns is Soportújar, which promotes itself using a witchy vibe, and is now the most sought-after term on Google search for Granada region. With its self-styled theme, over the last few years, it has mounted popular effigies such as the Baba Yaga witch head, a crooked house with chicken legs, a gingerbread house, a serpent, spiders, and a dragon fountain. These can be found easily while strolling through the town, which also has Spain’s narrowest street.
Although the theme park element isn’t to everybody’s taste, children tend to love it. Many families (mainly Spanish) visit Soportújar during weekends and ‘puentes’ to see the attractions and stroll along the nearby GR7 hiking trail. Be aware: it’s difficult to park and use restaurants at peak times. Book ahead or avoid these busy timeslots. The refurbished Cantina del Dragon is a good place to eat.
Trevélez
About 50mins further along the A-4132, into the high Alpujarra, we reach Trevélez, which is one of Spain’s loftiest villages at 1,776m. It’s famed for its Serrano ham, which is sold throughout the whole area, and has a special seal of denomination dating back to the time of Queen Elizabeth II in 1862.
In recent years, the ‘ayuntamiento’ has installed a series of amusing model animals throughout the town. The most interesting are the little piggies in their houses, located in barrios ‘bajo’, ‘medio’ and ‘alto’. The mayor wants to encourage visitors that there’s more to the town than just the ‘main drag’ lying along the A-1342 through barrio bajo.
He has just cause. The higher barrios are both interesting and beautiful. Barrio Alto is a good place to dine, with La Fragua proving a popular choice. There’s also a jamon museum.
However, the pigs and their model animal companions weren’t to everyone’s taste. Trevélez lost its ‘Magical’ towns of Spain status in September 2022 for applying for the rival ‘Mas Bonitas de Espana’ scheme, and for installing ‘plastic-type’ animals and effigies. It was considered by the judging team that “plastic” beasts aren’t cultural, while old ‘lavabos’ are more appropriate visitor attractions (the author has seen many old lavabos and would rather view the pigs!). Trevélez won its place on the ‘Mas Bonitas’ scheme, so all ended well.
Torvizcón
On route back from Trevélez – if you’re not driving towards the Almerian Alpujarra instead – you can motor south along the winding A-4130 mountain road. This scenic pass goes past Almejíjar and arrives at Torvizcón, in the low Alpujarra, and on the Sierra de Contraviesa.
Perhaps best known for its ‘rambla’ (a usually dry riverbed), this town has mounted a series of cute mini houses, in Alpujarran style, on the side of the road leading to Cadiar.
These model houses are well-constructed and true to detail. They light up at night. However, it’s slightly concerning that the little windows appear to have been vandalised – although, perhaps, it was a recent storm that caused the damage.
While in Torvizcón, why not eat in the very reasonably priced Hotel Sahyl, or take a stroll along the rambla? The narrow mountain pass leading to the Cotraviesa, directly above the town, is also well worth a drive, especially in almond blossom season, but is not for the faint-hearted.
If you then return to Órgiva, don’t forget to check out the effigy of Don Quijote on the main street. Also, Lanjarón has its ornamental fountain, with a brass effigy of two people, in the main plaza. Models, effigies, and statues are modish in the tourist sector these days.
The route plan
