ATTRACTING thousands of visitors annually – from nearby and far afield – the religious fiesta of Corpus Christi is an important part of Granada’s cultural history, and a huge pull for tourists.
Over 500 years old, the Corpus festivities were first held under royal command. Today, it’s a full week of celebration, with much revelry. The event is best known for its huge fairground (‘recinta ferial’) at Almanjáyar, to the north of the city. This is inaugurated at 11pm on Saturday 25 May, with spectacular illuminations, and ends on 1 June with a fireworks display. The actual date that Corpus falls upon is 30 May.
In the large fiesta space, numerous horses and carriages parade around the streets, sometimes stopping outside various bars for ‘refrescos’. The ‘jinetes’ (horsemen) and their passengers are dressed in traditional, flamenco-influenced finery. It’s the ideal location for taking your camera (just keep your eye on it!). You can also take your kids on the many fairground rides adjacent to the main area.
This year, the fair has 67 ‘casetas’ – translated as little houses, each belonging to a different organisation. Some are private, most are public. They almost all serve drinks and/or food (note: it’s not cheap!). You’ll find everything from a sedate space run by a bank to a party tent rammed with people dancing to Latin grooves.
At night, the place comes to life with a revelry vibe and sufficient security to ensure that the hordes behave.
Not just a massive party
Corpus, being a religious celebration, has it more serious side. The Corpus Christi procession takes place on Thursday, May 30. It is always 60 days after Easter Monday.
On the Wednesday of the event, a procession called ‘La Tarasca’, with participants dressed in outlandish costumes, runs through the main streets of Granada city. ‘La Tarasca’ is the name of the mannequin perched on a dragon that receives a new designer dress every year. She’s accompanied by a procession including ‘Big Heads’ that are “very un-PC”, according to one reader, Deborah, and include caricatures such as “a Chinaman, a native American and an black man.” She says: “I wonder when they will stop using them?”
On the Sunday of the week following Corpus, a small procession is held around the Cathedral. This is called’ Octava del Corpus’.
The full programme is available online.
Getting there
Almanjáyar is near the Pulianas junction of the GR-30 ‘autovia’. There are also special bus services from around Granada and the fairground is near the city’s main bus station. There’s paid parking and on-street parking (if you’re lucky enough to find a spot). Never leave valuables in your car.
