A HIDDEN gem in the municipality of Soportújar, Granada region, The O Sel Ling Buddhist Retreat Centre is built on the high mountains (the Sierra de Soportújar) in a serene and secluded place. You’ll find it at 1,600m, in a scenic “‘triangle“‘ where the highest peaks of Veleta and Mulhacen meet in the distance. Its name was decided by the Dalai Lama, head of Buddhism, when he visited back in 1982.
The visit from the Dalaia Lama came just two years after the Buddhist retreat centre was founded in 1980 by Tibetan lamas – Lama Thubten Yeshe and Lama Thubten Zopa Rinpoche. It has since welcomed hundreds of “meditators and pilgrims”, and operates to this day.
Part of Soportújar – but tranquil
Unlike the nearby village of Soportújar, famed for its witchy theme, O Sel Ling provides a peaceful environment for meditation and personal reflection. Let’s face it: who doesn’t need this in the ‘digital age’, when we are all glued to social media and our smartphones?
Overlooking the outstanding scenery, with panoramic views, O Sel Ling is designed for those seeking spiritual growth and deeper understanding of Buddhist teachings. It also opens its doors to visitors, on a day trip, to see the traditional statues and monuments.
Soportújar is clearly proud of the centre and its past famous guest. A Buddhist statue appears in the main street, in recognition of O Sel Ling.
What does O Sel Ling represent?
The O Sel Ling retreat centre practises Mahayana Buddhism (from Tibet), taught by various masters. It follows the Gelugpa tradition of Lama Tsong Khapa, whose highest representative is the Dalai Lama. It is part of the Foundation for the Preservation of the Mahayana Tradition (FPMT) – an international, non-profit organisation founded in 1975 by Lama Thubten Yeshe and Lama Thubten Zopa Rinpoche.
So, in case anyone has any doubts, O Sel Ling is an established and professional centre with decades of experience. This is a world away from the “fake shaman / woo” vibe that prevails in some parts of La Alpujarra!
Join a retreat?
Besides travelling uphill to see thestatue of Tara, the Tibetan flags, and the beautiful setting, visitors can stay at the retreat. It’s possible to join group retreats, meditation classes, or book individual cabins for solitary practice. The cabins are simple but comfortable, offering basic amenities.
The O Sel Ling centre also has a main gompa (meditation hall), a dining area, and communal spaces.
What will they teach me?
Osel Ling runs a variety of retreats, of different lengths. These are for groups and individuals. There are also special events, such as meditation classes. Some retreats are structured, while others encourage solo practice. In general, you’ll receive teachings on Buddhist philosophy and other aspects of the Dharma. Activities may include daily meditation sessions, study sessions, and personal practice time.
Getting there
The location of Osel Ling is relatively remote, and the centre can be reached by car or hiking trail. It does require some planning. The road to Soportújar, from the larger market town of Orgiva, is the A-4132. However, don’t turn left into Soportújar – continue a short distance along the A-4132 until you reach a left-hand junction to a wide forestry (dirt) road at Padre Eterno. You follow this upwards for 3.8km, then you make a sharp left turn (signposted) towards the centre. In another 2.5km, you’ll reach O Sel Ling. Meanwhile, there are various hiking routes to the centre, taking at least 8km uphill (all part of the experience!).
For retreats and mediation sessions, you must book in advance. Don’t just turn up! You might have to fulfil certain criteria (for example, not lying, taking drugs or alcohol, or interfering with other participants’ sexual relationships!). Be respectful.